[89y49rexsi]

i am getting ready to start building a new motor for my honda

the plan is as follows

b18b bottom end which is a 1.8 li dohc im leaving stock rods and crannk using 1.6li domed pistions since the 1.8 has flat pistons with the same bore this will raise the compression slightly.

then i will use a nitrous express nitrous wet kit with a 100 shot

i will run it with a p28 ecu with a full neptune
with a rywire dizzy jumper and a rywire ecu jumper harness
and obd1 b16 or gsr dizzy

i am told i should be pushing close to 300 at the wheels in my ef 4door (89 civic sedan)

here is a pic of the header that i want


p&p--------------------------------------n/a
b16a head--------------------------------n/a
edelbrock victor x intake manifold----------n/a
edelbrock 65mm throttle body-------------n/a
adj fpr-----------------------------------n/a
act prolight 7.5 lb flywheel----------------n/a
act stage 2 clutch------------------------n/a
s1 lsd trans------------------------------n/a
hasport billit aluminum mounts-------------n/a
dsm 450 injectors-------------------------used 50
ls block w/ crank and caps and rods-------150
dual valve springs and tit retainers---------319
bronze vavlve guides----------------------89
hytech replica header long tube------------390 shipped
custome exhaust piping 2"-----------------100
magnaflow muffler-------------------------67.99
nx wet kit--------------------------------150
skunk2 stage 2 tuner series cams----------used 250 w/gears
obx high flow catylytic converter----------60
arp head studs---------------------------139 shipped
golden eagle metal head gasket ----------99
golden eagle ls vtec kit-------------------175 shipped

grand est total---------------------------2039

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[minion]

nitrous and high compression are not exactly a lofty combo on stock rods. i say if you're gonna build a motor, build it and boost it. i have destroyed plenty of my motors with nitrous. ask fast frankie if utah down at supremacy racing. if you were to use nitrous, use the appropriate nitrous/turbo piston. you don't want to add compression with nitrous into an already higher compression motor. use some h-beams and low comp turbo pistons at the bare minimum before squeezing any juice more than a 65 shot wet or not, or it wont last long, and it'll be alot of work for a short period of fun. ls rods are week as fuck. and on an ls stroke, that's recipe for a spun bearing when you hit the juice button. if i were to build another nitrous motor out of b series, i would destroke it and rev it up higher. i love gsr cranks in ls blocks. best combo. 9 second steve has that exact combo. ls block, gsr crank, and manley TT rods. it's the courtney green special.

oh and you dont really need bigger injectors for a wet shot. you are already jetting in the extra fuel from your fuel solenoid straight into your intake. i would focus on upgrading your fuel pump if you are going to be stuck on the idea of wet nitrous.

[89y49rexsi]

i actually talked to him about this build before anyone else lol and he told me that stock rods can hold a 100 shot all day i dont plan on shooting it all the time just once in awhile at the strip hahahaha

i was thinkin a walbro 255
and i heard about the gsr crank but b16 pistons dont raise the compression all that much just make it more fun without nitro lol

i will try to find some decent pistons on the cheaper side so that i can splurge on a few other things lol

if you have any other sugesstions then lets hear them

[minion]

if you're gonna stick with the stock rods, i would suggest to just use ls pistons and deck your block and mill your head to bring the gap a little closer if you're looking for slightly higher compression during off the bottle times. the biggest point about how a turbo piston works, (ls pistons are similar in design) is that the air flow across the top of them is smooth and uninterrupted. pr3 or p30 pistons will disrupt the flow a little from the dome height (no matter how slight). think about how smooth you want the air to flow in and out of the cylinders. straight lines flow easier that roller coaster flow, up and over the pistons.

and yeah walb 255 pumps'll be perfect for your setup.they're <100 bucks. nippon racing makes aftermaket oem replacement cast pistons. you can get them off ebay for relatively cheap. and will be fine with that small of a shot. you can get 81.5mm ls pistons from them.

i always suggest borin blocks to 81.5 when you rebuild them. because you have to hone the block out any ways. and that messes with the piston to wall clearance. so i always just bore them out to the right size for new pistons. 81mm piston will cost the same as an 81.5mm one. and the bore will cost like 50 bucks more than the hone.

and frankie does pretty decent p & p work for a relatively decent price. we've been having him do up heads for us this past year. they come out pretty decent.

[89y49rexsi]

my friend is doing mine for free he did his own and his brothers and they work out great he knows his shit i work with him at the airport he is a master mechanic he is also the one that will be putting the head together

i will check out those pistons cuz i wanna keep this build under 4gs with tuning and everything else needed

[89y49rexsi]

i found the fuel pump
Walbro Fuel Pump 88-91 Honda Civic CRX Honda Accord 255:eBay Motors (item 220439699683 end time Jul-21-09 17:52:12 PDT)

[89y49rexsi]

i decided to splurge and get some wisco forged pistons for this build tell me what you think



ModernHonda.com*-*Acura Integra*-*'92-'93 Model Years*-*Engine Components and Cooling*-*Engine Internals*-*Pistons*-*Wiseco Forged Pistons Acura Integra 94-01 B18C / 90-01 B18A1/B1

and some eagle h beam connecting rods w/ arp 2000 rod bolts



yes on ebay but thats the only place i can find that sells them lol

EAGLE H-BEAM CONNECTING RODS HONDA ACURA B18A B18A B20:eBay Motors (item 200237319908 end time Aug-01-09 16:37:16 PDT)

[89y49rexsi]

the updated parts list

p&p--------------------------------------n/a
b16a head--------------------------------n/a
edelbrock victor x intake manifold----------n/a
edelbrock 65mm throttle body-------------n/a
adj fpr-----------------------------------n/a
act prolight 7.5 lb flywheel----------------n/a
act stage 2 clutch------------------------n/a
s1 lsd trans------------------------------n/a
hasport billit aluminum mounts-------------n/a
__________________________________________
dsm 450 injectors-------------------------used 50
skunk2 stage 2 tuner series cams----------used 250 w/gears
__________________________________________________ _
ls block w/ crank and caps and rods-------150
dual valve springs and tit retainers---------319
bronze vavlve guides----------------------89
custome exhaust piping 2"----------------100
magnaflow muffler------------------------67.99
nx wet kit--------------------------------150
obx high flow catylytic converter----------60
golden eagle metal head gasket -----------99
wisco forged pistons----------------------430
walboro 255 fuel pump--------------------100
blox racing high comp sainless valves------120
golden eagle ls vtec kit-------------------175 shipped
eagle h beam rods w/ arp rod bolts--------310 shipped
hytech replica header long tube-----------390 shipped
arp head studs---------------------------139 shipped

grand est total---------------------------3000

[89y49rexsi]

what do yall think about this tracion bar yall think it might be any good let me know what you think

here is tha link
88-91 Honda Civic EF Chromoly Traction Control Bar 90 :eBay Motors (item 290329803318 end time Jul-14-09 16:58:01 PDT)

[minion]

i love weisco pistons. they're amazing. do you have someone to assemble the motor, or are you doing that yourself? or are you having courtney do that for ya?

[minion]

but if you have this money into a rotating assembly that'll take 20lbs boost. why not just go boost so you can enjoy the power all the time?

[89y49rexsi]

im going to learn to do it myself im a mechanics apprentice right now i wanna learn i like to to shit myself lol

have you ever heard of love machine

im going nitrous for awhile cuz it aint that expensive and i planned on going high comp forged lol

i can always go boost latter lol

[minion]

cool well good luck on your build man. you can shoot quite the shot on those pistons and rods. if you have any questions on how to put it together just ask. it aint that hard. i've built over a dozen b motors from the crank up now.

my advice on putting the motor together is to have the internet with you while you are assembling, and a haynes manual. also a decent ring grinder to keep the gaps even. file them to spec by grinding off only a couple thousandths of an inch at a time and take your time. check the gap, grind, check the gap, grind, check the gap, grind... it becomes pretty tedious, but at least we're not doing it to 8 cylinders.

torque wrench of course. and even a rod bolt stretch gauge can be a wise to pick up, or you can torque the rod bolts to spec. either way works fine. just do it in steps.

i really like using GE head studs. just make sure that after your torque them in sequence, go back over them at the same final torque, cuz some of them will walk back out by a couple ft/lbs. i've experienced it with both ARP and GE head studs. so just go over them twice in sequence at your final step.

dont go cheap on bearings. whatever you do. just get some cleviteH rod/main bearings. and make sure you have all your shit micropolished and balanced. after your cranks polished, keep it in the bag till you go to drop it in. keep the dust off of it. bearings are sensitive.

here's our clevite distributors number. we order from this guy all the time. 1-800-756-1114.
here's the part numbers for the bearings you need.
rods: cb1353h
mains: ms2095p
thrust: tw473s (or tw4735. i can't read my own hand writing sometimes)

they'll be about $90.00 + shipping.

we order those rods from ebay all the time. good price and it's what you need.

[89y49rexsi]

good to hear cuz thats what i was going to do cuz they got the cheapest price lol

anything else i should know or make sure to do besides micro polish and balance which i was already thinking about lol

ive heard of cryo forging and i was thinkin about having the whole block cryo forged its like 50 bucks lol

i was going to use acl or king bearings but if you swear by those i will look into them thanks bro

[minion]

I SWEAR AGAINST THE KING AND ACL BEARINGS!!!! I REPEAT. STAY AWAY FROM THOSE GARBAGE BEARINGS.

spend the extra 50 bucks on the bearings. you're gonna go beat up on this motor no doubt. the last thing you wanna do is trash a rod, and your crank by spinning a bearing, or have a bearing fall apart on you.

these are the bearings that all the big motors use. courtney swears by them. steve, frank, joe housley, jason pennmen... everyone uses the clevites. hell nascar racecars fuckin uses them for their motors. i SWEAR BY THESE BEARINGS. it's cheap insurance to guarantee that your bottom end doesnt go to shit.

i've used every bearing off of ebay. acl duraglide, king, acl race, and king race and seriously. nothing but shit! half the time they pit out during clearance check. (oh yeah, get some plastigauge from checkers, and make sure to do a clearance check before assembling the motor)

best to buy the bearings once, and stick with them. one of our first motors we went through 3 sets of acl duraglides before we had a usable bearing set. that cost us 160 bucks for 3 sets. as opposed to every motor after that that we have used the clevites, buy them once and they're suck a badass material that they dont pit or scratch at all.