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My car doesn't start: why and what can be done

This is a discussion on My car doesn't start: why and what can be done within the Tips - Tricks - How to's - Guides - DIY's forums, part of the TunedTech's Features category; Since many people are having starting problems lately I made up this using info scattered everywhere including this forum, my experience and specially manuals. Sooner or later it will happen, ...


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Old 07-05-2009, 11:22 PM   #1
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Default My car doesn't start: why and what can be done


Since many people are having starting problems lately I made up this using info scattered everywhere including this forum, my experience and specially manuals.

Sooner or later it will happen, your car wonīt start anymore. Maybe it gave you some advice previously that it would take some vacations or maybe it was something sudden but in any case, in our cars there are some common causes for it to happen. And donīt get frustrated, it happens to everyone and ours are 20 years old ones or almost so, problems are expected.

The first and best advice: if the engine rotates (you hear it turning and trying to start) and it doesn't happens then donīt continue to do it on and on. You can damage your starter or drain the battery and then you will have another big problem. Although I tried to get some very precise info, I canīt guarantee that the following are the exact causes for your car problem. Now letīs go...

Problem: [size=18px]Engine will not rotate when attempting to start.[/size]

Probable causes:
- Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Try to move them and check again. Baking soda diluted in some water or plain coca cola can get rid of some of the corrosion and help it start.
- Battery discharged or faulty. If you canīt get your headlights on or they are very dim this could be the cause. If you have a multimeter check the voltage in the terminals, it should be way more than 12 V.
- In automatic transmission equipped cars the tranny is not completely engaged in PARK. If the tranny has problems try it in Neutral. I have seen this so many times...specially, women are prone to do this
- In manual transmission equipped cars the clutch is not completely depressed, if the tranny is in first. Try to press the pedal or put the tranny in neutral.
- Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit. Check with multimeter to see if the starter is getting 12 V at its terminals when the key is in the ON position.
- Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear.
- Starter motor solenoid faulty.
- Starter motor faulty. In this case, as in the previous try to hit the starter with something like a stick, a ratchet, etc. and try to start again. In most cases this will work, however after some time you will be beat the hell out of the starter and it wonīt start..time to take it out dude.
- Ignition switch faulty. Sometimes you can find burn wires on the wires or maybe loose connectors.
- Flywheel teeth worn or broken.
- Blown fuses in the inside fuse box or in the engine fuse box. Although a long shot on this troubleshooting, simple things like this can be the main cause.

Problem: [size=18px]Engine rotates but will not start. Or engine starts but stops immediately.[/size]

Probable causes:
- Fuel tank empty. Are you sure the fuel gauge is working? When was the last time you added some fuel? Driving around with empty tanks is for losers, try to have more than 1/4 tank or better take a walk or take the bus, homie.
- Faulty main relay. Common symptom is the car starts sometimes and others not, then almost every time it wonīt start until finally doesn't start anymore. You can take it out and replace it or repair it (if possible).
- Leaking fuel injectors or leaking fuel lines. This sometimes is easy to discover because of the odor.
- Faulty carburetor, fuel pump, pressure regulator or some other component in the fuel system. When you put the key in the ON position you should hear a whirring sound for about 2 seconds, that's the fuel pump pushing fuel to the engine. If you canīt hear that itīs probably bad, sometimes (it worked for me) if you get down the car and hit the fuel tank hard the fuel pump may start to work, but it wont last long, probably less than your last date.
- Fuel not reaching the fuel rail or carburetor. You may hear the fuel pump working but if itīs not giving enough pressure the car wonīt start. Also if the fuel lines are clogged or broken you will not get enough fuel. The best way to check this is with a fuel pressure gauge, either take the car to a shop or a mech to check it or buy some gauge like the B&M one that is mounted permanently over the filter.
- Battery almost discharged (engine rotates very slowly).
- Battery terminal connections loose or corroded.
- Ignition components damp. If the dizzy cap is broken and water gets inside the car will not start.
- Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Faulty or incorrectly installed spark plug wires. Low quality wires and plugs are the worst things you can use on your engine. Use good ones, they are not expensive.
- Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit or in the ignition coil. If the alternator connections are loose the car may start and stop.
- Loose distributor is changing engine timing.
- Broken or loose timing belt.
- Faulty coil, ignition or overall dizzy.
- Vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and the throttle body. The car maybe will start but it may stop. Sometimes you can discover this with the hissing sound the vacuum leaks produce.

Although all the previous are the most common causes (more than 80% of the occasions) still there are other reasons less common:
- Bad ecu.
- bad ignition coil
- Mechanical damage inside the engine. Damaged valvetrain components like valves, springs and retainers, and camshaft can cause the engine to start and stop or donīt start. Damage inside the block like blown piston rings, broken rods, pistons or crankshaft or severely damage cylinder sleeves may impede the engine from reaching good operating levels, loose compression and ultimately stop and donīt start again.
- This really can happen: you install a kill switch to make the car inoperable and accidentally activate it while driving, or you forget you activated it when you stopped, or you are so drunk or intoxicated that you forgot about it. Good luck with that since you are the only one who knows where it is or how to disengage it. Too bad if you are with a hot chick.
- The same can happen if the kill switch goes bad or the previous owner installed one and he didnīt mentioned to you. The same goes for passive alarm system that disable ignition, main relay or other starting signal to the ecu.
- Strong electrical or magnetic fields or interference can screw the electronics on the car making it inoperable. Donīt ask me how or why, I know this can happen and UFO related sites report it has happened all over the world.

Remember that, depending on the problem you may still be able to start your car, IF its manual trans, by pushing it while in gear and depressing and releasing the clutch until it start.

pm me or post in this thread if you own a car other than a 88-91 civic/crx

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Old 07-05-2009, 11:24 PM   #2
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Thank you for creating this thread Zac
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:33 PM   #3
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why thank you i found the info and put it all together so that it might answer alot of peoples questions shit i think i forgot on hold on i will add it this happened to me my ignighter coil went out on me and caused my car to not start
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:37 PM   #4
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lol still but yea great article found man
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89y49rexsi View Post
why thank you raid3n
once again lol
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:48 PM   #6
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great write up bro
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:50 PM   #7
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thanks about time i get recognized for my endless work by people besides raid3n lol jk
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:56 PM   #8
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lol no worriess sooner youll get notice
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:07 PM   #9
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lmfao i was kidding
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Old 07-07-2009, 12:13 AM   #10
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great write up man
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Old 07-07-2009, 12:18 AM   #11
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thanks
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:20 PM   #12
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great write up man. thorough.
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:31 PM   #13
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add on there the dizz rotor... i've had the little bolt that hold the rotor onto the dizz come off and impede distribution of electrical charge. usually when this happens and you are attempting to start the car, it will pop intermittently as it is sparking at the right time intermittently.

this will also happen if the part on the dizz that connects to the cam is installed 180 out.

also if it's a freshly put together setup, i've had this happen, where cams were installed 180 degrees off. although this will not mess up the valves, it will inhibit start up. if this happens you will hear the motor pop here and there, but the exhaust will be coming through intake manifold instead of the exhaust manifold. it's a quick fix, loosen the t-belt, flip the cams around. put the belt back on with correct timing and you should be all good.

various vacuum problems, missing components and what not, can inhibit startup.

also a faulty coolent temp sensor, located on the head of the motor on the passenger side near the water neck, can cause a no start.
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:38 PM   #14
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true true minion i forgot about the rotor screw falling off lol

ive had that happen so many times its not even funny lmao

i should have thought of that lol

the first time it happened to me i thought i blew my motor the second time i knew exactly what happened and the third time i freaked assumin the worst lol

then figured it out lol
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